Wines of Ischia

 

The Casa D’Ambra vineyard and production complex sits in a natural amphitheatre overlooking the bay of Citara in Forio d’Ischia. 

Renowned as one of the foremost wine producers in Ischia, with awards and DOC ratings for their bottles, Casa D’Ambra is one of the first names on the lips when it comes to the history and art of wine production in Ischia.

Ischia Review were lucky enough to be invited along to Casa D’Ambra to witness at first-hand, exactly what a visitor to their cantina and vineyards can expect. As we were welcomed by the sisters, Marina and Sara D’Ambra, the family traditions of Casa D’Ambra are immediately apparent. It was back in 1888 that the sisters’ great grandfather, Francesco D’Ambra, first started producing wine in Ischia and the business has stayed in the family ever since, with generation after generation taking over the reins of the business when it was passed down to them.

The most recent recipient of the baton was Mario D’Ambra who took control of operations in 2000 and has been carefully nurturing the business through its development into a prolific producer of high-quality wines in the modern era.

It is immediately obvious that Mario D’Ambra carries the passion started by his great grandfather, when hearing his daughters Marina and Sara enthuse about the wines and their production. The young sisters are keen students of wine and the wine industry with their depth of knowledge and ability to answer any questions fired at them very impressive.

Our tour of Casa D’Ambra began in the museum where Marina and Sara explained the early days of Casa D’Ambra with the aid of some fascinating exhibits. Situated on the first floor of the main building of the complex, the museum charts the history of the family business, right back to its roots in 1888. Monica explains how her great great grandfather,”Don Ciccio” (Francesco D’Ambra), cleverly manipulated the local laws to ensure he became the leading of exporter of wine from Ischia to the mainland in Naples.

The photographic montage on the museum’s walls is a fascinating passage through time, not only of Ischia during its pre-tourism days, but also of the wine-making industry in general. Photos of ships being loaded with barrels of wine in Ischia Porto show the island in a very different light to how it is today and it’s interesting to think that the place where you now arrive on your ferry was once used mainly used for trade with the mainland.

The great thing about the museum is that it shows some of the tools that were first used to create the Casa D’Ambra wine. The wide variety of implements serve to emphasise the care and precision with which the wine has been produced over the years. The exhibits also show how wine production has slowly evolved over the years with items shown from every period of the company’s existence. 

Possibly the most eye-catching of the exhibits on display, is the papier-mache mini recreation of Ischia’s streets and houses from the days when the company was born in 1888. The attention to detail of these scenes is incredible and echoes those found in the streets of Naples where it is considered an art-form. The “mini Ischia” contains many sights that still exist in Ischia today such as the unmistakable Chiesa del Soccorso in Forio.

After spending time in the museum, the tour then moves on to the larger building which houses the machinery and equipment used to facilitate the production of the wines, such as the huge vats and barrels in which the wines are stored at various stages.  It is within this building that you can really understand what a sophisticated operation exists at Casa D’Ambra as you follow the journey from grape to bottle. From the vinification in stainless steel tanks, red wine ageing in wooden barrels, bottling, packaging and then distribution, it’s fascinating to witness at first hand the complex process that has to occur in order to create these high-quality wines.

Casa D’Ambra sources grapes from around 150 carefully selected vineyards around Ischia and with their clever machinery they are able to produce a staggering number of bottles per year. For example, the bottling machines which you can watch in operation as part of the tour, bottles, labels and seals 3,000 bottles per hour, helping the company to produce around half a million bottles annually. The staff are all on hand to answer questions or to show you in more detail how they go about their various tasks, from the machine-operators through to the packaging and distribution team.

One of the most memorable parts of our day at Casa D’Ambra was the trip to the family’s Frassitelli vineyards, high up on the slopes of Mount Epomeo. As the car winds its way up around the twisting roads in Serrara Fontana, the scenery outside becomes more dramatic and breathtaking at every turn. However, despite witnessing the gradual change in scenery during the 15 minute journey, nothing quite prepares you for the awe-inspiring vista that you are presented with on arrival at the Frassitelli vineyard. Situated at around 800 metres above sea-level, the vineyard is one of the highest peaks in Ischia and it is due to this fact that the views are difficult to match anywhere on the island. The panoramic views of the north-western part of the island take in Forio, The Bay of Citara and Sant’Angelo, but also the islands that neighbour Ischia such as Ventotene, Procida and Capri. 

Of course, this area was not chosen for its views but for the impact that the high altitude has on the wine production. The height, type of soil and particularly the tufa stone that can be found around Ischia and Mount Epomeo in particular, combine to create the perfect growing conditions for the D’Ambra wines. The peace and tranquility is palpable at the Frassitelli vineyard but the area can also be used to stage parties or romantic meals. Next to the vineyard and carved out of stone,  sits a small house with a kitchen and lounge which is used to create local specialities such as coniglio Ischitano which can be enjoyed along with carefully selected wines.

The meals are served in an outdoor seating area where groups are entertained with guitar music, food and great conversation while enjoying the range of wines that the D’Ambra sisters carefully select for you to perfectly complement your chosen meal. Just a short walk along from the main seating area, the most romantic location imaginable awaits couples who have chosen the “Wine in Love” tour. As the sun sets over Ischia, the couple can enjoy the area to themselves with an intimate table and chairs made of the tufa stone, carved out to create a promontory from which to enjoy the spectacular views. A personalised waiter brings out the home-cooked Ischian specialities as you are left to dine alone in peace while enjoying the Casa D’Ambra wines.

The “Wine in Love” experience has to be booked in advance, with prices on application, but part of the regular visit to Casa D’Ambra incorporates the best part of all, the wine-tasting! The tastings take place in the same building as the museum, in a room filled with beautiful antique furniture. Sara and Monica serve the wines and explain how best to enjoy them with different foods or at different stages of a meal. The antique room is also a reminder to the D’Ambra heritage as photographs of famous visitors from years gone by can be seen in various volumes that you are allowed to peruse. Whilst trying the different wines you are given specially chosen cheese or salami which is designed to perfectly complement the various bottles.